Plastic Containers

News on plastic bottles that we drink in safe or not safe

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The Taskmaster® TM2300 is a versatile, heavy-duty, twin shaft shredder available with up to 50 hp drive to handle such applications as waste, rejects, packaging materials, hides, containers, recycling, rendering, pulp and paper, plastic and plastic drums, crates, pallets, medical waste, cans, PET/HDPE bottles, computer printouts, pharmaceutical rejects, concession waste, newspapers, and much more. The Taskmaster TM2300 features a unique split body design that allows for the fast and convenient removal of each cutter stack as a complete assembly. This facilitates fast turn around of cutters for maintenance. The Taskmaster TM2300 is typically provided complete with input hopper, stand and automatic reversing controls. Auxiliary equipment includes conveyors and packing ram assists, feeders, scales, air filters, liquid handling systems and more.

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Most refrigerators and walk-ins seem virtually indestructible and problem free, but you’ll get longer life out of yours by following these safety and maintenance tips. Clean the door gaskets and hinges regularly. The door gaskets, made of rubber, can rot more easily if they are caked with food or grime, which weakens their sealing properties. They can be safely cleaned with a solution of baking soda and warm water. Hinges can be rubbed with a bit of petroleum jelly to keep them working well. Dirty coils force the refrigerator to run hotter, which shortens the life of the compressor motor. They should be cleaned every 90 days, preferably with an industrial-strength vacuum cleaner.

Walk-in floors can be damp-mopped but should never be hosed out. Too much water can get into the seals between the floor panels and damage the insulation. A refrigerator only works as well as the air that’s allowed to circulate around its contents. Cramming food containers together so there’s not a spare inch of space around them doesn’t help. Also try to keep containers (especially cardboard ones) from touching the walls of the cabinet. They may freeze and stick to the walls, damaging both product and wall. Use a good rotation system: First in, first out (FIFO) is preferable. Or put colored dots on food packages, a different color for each day of the week, so everyone in your kitchen knows how long each item has been in the fridge.

WALK-IN COOLERS AND FREEZERS

A walk-in cooler is just what its name implies: a cooler big enough to walk into. It can be as small as a closet or as large as a good-size room, but its primary purpose is to provide refrigerated storage for large quantities of food in a central area. Experts suggest that your operation needs a walk-in when its refrigeration needs exceed 80 cubic feet, or if you serve more than 250 meals per day. Once again, you’ll need to determine how much you need to store, what sizes of containers the storage space must accommodate, and the maximum quantity of goods you’ll want to have on hand. The only way to use walk-in space wisely is to equip it with shelves, organized in sections. Exactly how much square footage do you need? The easiest formula is to calculate 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of walk-in storage for every meal you serve per day. Another basic calculation: Take the total number of linear feet of shelving you’ve decided you will need (A), and divide it by the number of shelves (B) you can put in each section.

This will give you the number of linear feet per section (C). To this number (C), add 40 to 50 percent (1.40 or 1.50) to cover “overflow”-volume increases, wasted space, and bulky items or loose product. This will give you an estimate of the total linear footage (D) needed. However, linear footage is not enough. Because shelves are three dimensional, you must calculate square footage. So multiply (D) by the depth of each shelf (E) to obtain the total square footage amount (F). Finally, double the (F) figure, to compensate for aisle space. Roughly half of walk-in cooler space is aisle space. Another popular formula is to calculate that, for every 28 to 30 pounds of food you’ll store, you will need 1 cubic foot of space. When you get that figure, multiply it by 2.5. (The factor 2.5 means only 40 percent of your walk-in will be used as storage space; the other 60 percent is aisles and space between products.)

The result is the size of the refrigerated storage area you will need. For a walk-in freezer, simply divide your walk-in refrigerator space by two. Larger kitchens, which serve more than 400 meals a day, may need as many as three walk-in refrigerators for different temperature needs: one for produce (41 degrees Fahrenheit), one for meats and fish (33 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit), and one for dairy products (32 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit). The walk-in is used most often to store bulk foods. Because this often means wheeling carts or dollies in and out, the floor should be level with the kitchen floor.

This leveling is achieved by the use of strips (called screeds) that are applied to the floor. Coolers don’t come as a single unit; they are constructed on-site. The walls, ceilings, and floors are made of individual panels. Wall panels should be insulated to a rating of R-30, which means a 4-inch thickness. They come in various lengths and widths, with 12-by-12-inch corner panels at 90-degree angles. They can be as short as 71?2 feet or as tall as 131?2 feet. The most common type of insulation inside the panels is polyurethane, and the outside walls of the panels can be made of stainless steel, vinyl, or aluminum. Stainless steel is the most expensive, and aluminum-because it’s the least expensive-is the most popular choice. If the walk-in is an outdoor installation, aluminum is the most weather resistant.

The installer will be sure the unit has interior lighting. The floor panels for walk-ins are similar to the wall panels. Load capacities of 600 pounds per square foot are the norm, but if you plan to store very heavy items (like beer kegs), a reinforced floor can be purchased with a load capacity of up to 1000 pounds per square foot. The refrigeration system of a walk-in is a more complex installation than a standard refrigerator, primarily because it’s so much bigger. Matching the system (and its power requirements) with the dimensions of the walk-in and its projected use is best left to professionals, but it’s important to note that a walk-in accessed frequently throughout the day will require a compressor with greater horsepower to maintain its interior temperature than one that is accessed seldom.

A 9-foot-square walk-in would need at least a 2-horsepower compressor. The condenser unit is located either on top of the walk-in (directly above the evaporator) or up to 25 feet away, with lines connecting it to the walk-in. The latter, for obvious reasons, is known as a remote system, and is necessary for larger-than-normal condensing units with capacities of up to 7.5 horsepower. In a remote system, the refrigerant must be added at the time of installation. For smaller walk-ins, there’s also a plumbing configuration called a quick-couple system, which is shipped from the factory fully charged with refrigerant. This definitely simplifies installation. However, you may need the added power of a remote system if your kitchen has any of these drains on the walk-in’s cooling ability: frequent door opening, glass display doors, multiple doors per compartment, or an ambient kitchen temperature that’s near 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Modern walk-ins sometimes offer a frozen-food section in addition to the regular cooler space. There are pros and cons to this concept. It may ease the load on the freezer, because it’s already located inside a chilled airspace; but it also can’t help but reduce overall usable space, because it requires a separate door. You can also order your walk-in with a separate, reach-in section that has its own door and shelves. Although this may save the cost of purchasing a separate reach-in, some critics claim that a walk-in is not designed to do a reach-in job, such as storing uncovered desserts. Do you really want them in the same environment as cartons of lettuce and other bulk storage items? There may be cleanliness or food quality factors to consider.

The doors should open out, not into the cooler itself. The standard door opening is 34 by 78 inches. Several door features are important for proper walk-in operation. These include: A heavy-duty door closer. Self-closing, cam-lift door hinges. If the door can be opened past a 90-degree angle, the cam will hold it open. A heavy-duty stainless steel threshold. This is installed over the galvanized channel of the door frame. A pull-type door handle, with both a cylinder door lock and room to use a separate padlock if necessary. Pressure-sensitive vents, which prevent vacuum buildup when opening and closing the door. An interior safety release so no one can be (accidentally or otherwise) locked inside the cooler.

Other smart features that can be ordered for walk-ins are: A thermometer (designed for outdoor use, but mounted inside the cooler) with a range of 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A monitoring and recording system that keeps a printout of refrigeration temperature or downloads to a computer. Glass, full-length door panels (like those in supermarkets and convenience stores), sometimes called merchandising doors, either hinged or sliding. Heavy-duty plastic strip curtains inside the door. (One manufacturer claims a 40 percent energy savings with this feature.)

A foot treadle, which enables you to open the door by pressing on a pedal or lever with your foot when both hands are full. Three-way interior lighting, which can be turned on from outside or inside the cooler, with a light-on indicator light outside. Inside, the light itself should be a vapor-proof bulb with an unbreakable globe and shield. When space is at a premium, think about whether it is practical to install an outdoor walk-in unit. This is an economical way to add space without increasing the size of your kitchen, and you can purchase ready-to-use, stand-alone structures with electricity and refrigeration systems in place. They come in standard sizes from 8 to 12 feet wide and up to 50 feet in length, in 1-foot increments.

They range in height from 7.5 to 9.5 feet. Look for a unit with a slanted, weatherproof roof, a weather hood, and a fully insulated floor. Outdoor walk-ins cost about half of the price of installing an indoor kitchen walk-in, so this is a money-saving idea if it works in your location. If your demands for walk-in space are seasonal, consider leasing a refrigerated trailer, available in most metropolitan areas on a weekly or monthly basis. They can provide an instant 2000 cubic feet of additional storage space, which can be kept at any temperature from 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They use basic 60-amp, 230-volt, three-phase electricity. Ask if the lease agreement includes hookup at your site and service if anything goes wrong.

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Boulder County Recycling Center, Boulder, Colorado presents “Single-stream Recycling-Leading the Way to Zero Waste.” A 15:15 minute video offering an in-depth look at the single-stream recycling process at the Boulder County Recycling Center. The tour begins at the curbside recycling bin and follows the single-stream materials to the tipping floor of the Boulder County Recycling Center. Mr. Can, the star of the show, continues the recycling journey into the high-tech world of single-stream processing. Newspaper and office paper; corrugated cardboard; aluminum cans; glass bottles and jars; plastic bottles, tubs, jugs and jars; magazines and catalogs; and phone books are separated by a series of conveyors, pre-sorts, screens, cross-belt magnet, air classifier, Eddy current separator, glass cleaning system, organic separator, and finally a fines screen and vacuum. Action video explains each step of the way and provides a behind-the-scenes, up-close view of the equipment in action. The Boulder County Recycling Center is doing its part to help Boulder County become a Zero Waste Community by 2025. Because we’re all in this together, remember to Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Compost! Transcript available here: www.bouldercounty.org

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Cat food can be classified into dry, moist, and semi-moist foods. Each one has its advantages, and Ragdolls need various kinds of food at different stages. Kittens need on the whole breast milk and moist food, while adults require more protein and dry food. Pregnant Ragdolls have special dietary needs that change all through the pregnancy as well.

Ragdoll kittens ought to be only breastfed for the first four to five weeks. Cat milk includes all the nutrients necessary for the kitten’s growth, including antibodies that help prevent disease. Breast milk also passes on other antibodies that the mother produced to fight previous diseases.

More food ought to be supplied after four to five weeks, as the kitten requires more nutrients to support its fast growth. Introductory food ought to be easy to digest. Mix canned food with warm water or kitten replacement milk until it constitutes a loose paste. Do NOT use regular cow’s milk this is too heavy for kittens and could cause in indigestion.

Dry food

After another four to five weeks, your kitten should be ready for dry food. To make the change easier, moisten dry food with a little warm water in the first few feedings. It’s also essential to choose high-quality supplements to dry food and some of the good brands are Iams®, Science Diet®, and Nutro Kitten®. Science Diet Feline Growth® is popular among Ragdoll kittens. Supplements can be provided twice a day with morning and evening feeding. You can switch to adult food after approximately 12 months.

Choosing and preparing kitten food

Ragdoll kittens have fragile stomachs, so take extra care in choosing kitten food. Food should always be warm or slightly above room temperature. Discard all food that has been left out for more than 30 minutes, especially in the summer. Bacteria grows fast in warm, wet foods and may possibly upset your kitten’s stomach, or even lead to food poisoning. To stop wasting food, just observe how much your kitten eats at a time so you know how much to prepare per feeding.

House flies can easily contaminate kitten food, so keep your feeding area as fly-proof as possible. Wash the feeding bowl daily with hot, soapy water and replace water in the drinking bowl several times a day. Wash the drinking bowl at the same time and refill with fresh water.

Table scraps can be given occasionally, but don’t make regular meals out of them. Cooked human foods do not contain the nutrients necessary for your kitten’s growth. Generic cat food from groceries are better, but Stellarhart recommends high-quality foods from specialty pet stores. Also, cats don’t like the smell of plastic and metal containers, so use only glass drinking bowls.

Dry vs wet foods

Dry foods are generally better for your Ragdoll, except in the breastfeeding and introductory stage. They work your kitten’s chewing muscles and help keep the teeth white. Dry food consists in the main of meat and vegetables, and can be moistened or served dry. Serving them dry allows your cat to nibble throughout the day, rather than eating one large meal at a time. Dry food ought to contain about 9 to 10% moisture, 8% fat, and 30% protein.

Moist food contains about 75% moisture and equal amounts of fat and protein. Not all moist foods are the same some are all-meat or all-fish, while others are a mix of meat and vegetables. The former should not be used for regular meals, as your cat can get addicted and refuse to eat other foods. The small treat cans of variety foods are usually all-meat or all-fish. As with kitten food, moist foods ought to be warmed to room temperature before serving.

Semi-moist food has about 35% water, 27% protein, and 7% fat. Most of them are nutritionally balanced, very tasty, and can be left out for nibbling, but they spoil quicker than dry food.

Kitten treats

Occasional kitten treats will not harm your kitten, but take care not to fill them up so they can still eat regular meals. Treats ought to not provide any more than 10% of your kitten’s daily caloric intake. Look for hard chew treats to help improve your kitten’s dental health

B. Feeding Ragdoll Adults

Ragdolls are not very active, so they gain weight faster than other cats. Do not let them become obese provide them only 70 calories per kilogram of body weight. A lot of what people believe to be cats’ favourite foods are actually harmful. Here are some of the most common cat food myths:

Fish

Fish may be good for cats, but it can’t cover all their nutritional needs, and too much of the same nutrients can be harmful. Tuna is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, which need vitamin E to break them down. too much tuna in your cat’s diet can cause yellow fat disease (steatitis).

Milk

Milk is rich in water and carbohydrates, but many cats are lactose intolerant and get digestive problems a few hours after drinking milk. Regular cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and loose stools, which can lead to malnutrition and dehydration. If your cat likes milk, use replacement cat milk instead.

Catnip

Cats love the smell of catnip leaves, but it can cause short-term behavioural changes. Catnip is a hallucinogen and may possibly put your cat in a state of near delirium. Some effects include rolling, rubbing, chasing phantom mice, or simply staring into space. Although it’s not addictive, catnip has no place in your cat’s diet.

Dog food

It could be more convenient to feed your cat and dog from the same dish, but it’s not very healthy for either pet. Cats require more protein, taurine, preformed vitamin A, B-complex vitamins, and arachidonic acids, which they can get from a meat-heavy diet. A shortage of these nutrients can make your cat seriously ill, and an overdose can have the same effect in dogs.

Low ash diets

A popular belief among cat owners is that diets low in ash can help discourage urinary tract infection. But that’s only partly true. Ash is not a single nutrient, but is actually a group of minerals including calcium, copper, magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc. Lower levels of magnesium keep urine at its normal, slightly acidic state, but reducing other minerals will have no effect.

Other foods to avoid

Alcoholic beverages.

Alcohol can be toxic and cause fatal complications.

Baby food.

Many baby foods contain onion powder, which can be harmful to the blood.

Fish and meat bones.

Small splinters can cut into the digestive tract and lead to bleeding.

Caffeine (coffee, tea, chocolate).

Caffeine can affect the cat’s heart and nervous system.

Citrus oil extracts.

This can lead to stomach upsets and vomiting.

Fat.

Animal fats can lead to pancreatitis.

Don’t feed your cat fatty cooked meats, or at least trim the fat off first.

Grapes and raisins.

These contain a toxin that can harm the kidneys.

Human vitamin and iron supplements.

Excessive iron can damage the liver, kidneys, and the lining of the digestive tract.

Liver.

Liver is safe in limited amounts, but an excess can cause vitamin A toxicity.

Macadamia nuts.

Unknown toxins in macadamia can damage the muscles, digestive system, and nervous system.

Marijuana.

Marijuana can lead to vomiting, depression, and irregular heart rate.

Mushrooms.

Some mushrooms contain highly toxic substances that can affect multiple systems and even cause death.

Onion and garlic (powdered, cooked or raw).

These contain disulfides and sulfoxides, which can cause anaemia. They are harmful to both cats and dogs, but cats are more vulnerable.

Persimmons.

Persimmons seeds can obstruct the intestines.

Potato, tomato and rhubarb.

These can be harmful to the nervous, digestive, and urinary systems. The leaves and stems could possibly also be toxic.

Raw eggs.

Raw eggs can damage your cat’s hair and coat.

Salt.

Salt and salty foods can cause electrolyte imbalance, a potentially fatal condition affecting the heart and nervous system.

String.

Strings from beans and other vegetables may possibly not be digested, which can cause blockages.

Sugar.

Sweets are high in empty calories, which can lead to obesity, diabetes, and dental problems.

Yeast dough.

Yeast can expand in the stomach during digestion, causing it to rupture.

Once you have educated yourself as to the unique requirements of ragdoll cats you will instinctively know what is good or bad for your cat.

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ok..i went to walmart to see if they had plastic containers they did they had this tall one,but i dont know which one is better. i need feedback thanks

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I have to take my anoles out to clean there enclosure and this is how I keep them while I do.

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